Oleena Chaudhuri
Policy Analyst and Researcher
Not all healthcare problems are clinical, some are economical, while some, social. Societal pressures of looking better each day, come with dire consequences. The “2.0 best version of ourselves” that we carry in our heads, is the reason why fair skin is linked with success and beauty. The stigma behind dark skin, can mean going to great lengths to stay pale. It is not an unusual sight to see women carrying umbrellas, shading themselves from the sun, or covered with scarves to prevent oneself from tanning. Where does this preference for white skin come from? Reinforced through media: television, billboards, books and magazines. Pharmacies have stocks and piles of skin-whitening gels and creams, some of which even assure lightening of intimate body parts such as nipples and armpits. The pressure of being white just does not impact women, it widely impacts men too. Psychological researchers provide evidence by basing this on the “halo effect”. Here, an individual tends to assume that someone has positive qualities, because they possess one. Hence, the better someone looks, the better a person we think they become.
The real danger:
Skin bleaching can be defined as using chemical agents to lighten skin colour. These products can help reduce hyperpigmentation, but they are majorly used to intentionally lighten one’s skin. A vast number of products fall under the category of skin bleaching: pills, creams, injections, ointments and soaps. Medical research studies have found out that these products contain ingredients like mercury, corticosteroids or hydroquinone (not all creams contain this: it is potentially carcinogenic and products that contain it are banned in Ghana, Ivory Coast, Japan, Australia and the European Union, however, they are still illegally used). These agents act quickly on the skin by suppressing the production of melanin—the pigment which gives colour to the human skin. Mercury can also have an adverse effect on kidneys and the brain. Agents effective in lightening the skin, also come with other possible health issues such as adrenal suppression, dermatitis and impaired wound healing.
The History behind the fair skin obsession:
The Indian caste-system could be held as the root cause of this profound colourism inherent in every nook and cranny of the country. Light skin is correlated to wealth, status and higher changes of matrimony, while darker skin is linked to unattractiveness, poverty or as the lowest caste is called, “the untouchable”. Our colonial history, caste and class divisions are the main reason as to why the society has ended up shaping so negatively, skin complexions, and not only that, but also, creating and advertising the skin whitening industries.
The racist connotation that light skin is superior, is not just prevalent in the Indian mindset, but also has been powerfully advocated in countries like Jamaica, Nigeria, South Africa and Malaysia. Flashback to the 1400s, the whites invaded and colonised these countries – they included the French, British, Portuguese and Dutch. Having white skin, would automatically render you to be closer in skin colour to the Europeans, who were white themselves and enjoyed positions of power.
The differences in skin colour between North and South Indians, further opens up another disunion. However, delving deeper into our historical race concepts can clearly describe why we have disparate ancestries – Aryans and Dravidians. North Indians of Aryan ancestry have characteristics such as well-built bodies, tall height and fairer skin. On the contrast, South Indians of Dravidian ancestry are comparatively shorter and tend to be darker skinned.
The skin bleaching industry’s success largely depends on advertisements that star high-profile celebrities, who then endorse and promote whitening cream advertisements. These companies ruthlessly feed on off people’s insecurities. These are mostly the ones who hover over the clutches of Eurocentricity. They are sold a false dream– that they too will be able to gain from the social and personal honours of having fair skin.
A progressive India:
For years together, these bleaching treatments have been continuing in India’s cosmetics and beauty industry. This continues to inflict nation-wide colourism and discrimination towards people with darker skin-tones. However, early February this year, the Indian Government passed a landmark decision, addressing this long overdue issue. The Indian Ministry of Health and Family Welfare has finalized an amendment which bans advertisements promoting fairness creams and health drinks that claim to improve height, and promote anti-aging remedies. The offender will also have to serve potential jail time.
On February 3rd, 2020, the Drugs and Magic Remedies (Objectionable Advertisements) (Amendment) Bill, 2020 was released. The previous version of the Act held that ‘magic remedies’, medicines and products to cure any of the 54 diseases, disorders and named conditions should not be advertised. The new sub clause of section 3 of the Act, calls for prohibition of advertisements of certain drugs for treatment of certain diseases and disorders for maintenance or improvement of the capacity of human beings for sexual pleasure. The new amendment also includes another sub clause after sub clause 2 of section 3 which holds that, “after consultation with Ayurvedic, Siddha and Unani Drugs Technical Advisory Board constituted under section 33C of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 in respect of Ayurvedic, Siddha and Unani system of medicines”. The legislature proposes to charge INR 50 lakh worth fine. The draft bill has also increased the list of diseases from 54 to 78. The current law identifies “magic remedy” in the form of talisman, mantra, kavacha or any other charm which supposedly possesses miraculous powers to diagnose, cure, mitigate, treat or prevent any disease in human beings or animals or for effect or influence in any way the structure or any organic function of the body of human beings or animals. Taking lessons from the past, this legislation actually is capable of holding skin bleaching production companies liable for promoting such racist commodities.
Skin lightening treatments are offered in many beauty salons, and much of these preparations are unregulated. Studies on the safety and efficacy of these procedures are scarce. Turning the table still seems a gargantuan task. The generations of images that celebrate and favour white skin, the deep-seated norms, are so much more influential. Skin bleaching has now become a significant public health issue that is in constant need of scrutiny. In the post-colonial era, whiteness of the skin carries higher social capital in Asian and African countries. Colour bias has existed since time immemorial and so a legitimate concern occurs, will simply banning advertisements of these products solve the problem? Fairness products have become a part and parcel of life in South Asia, in fact they are available as over the counter products without prescription. The most significant role to play here would be of the dermatologists and doctors. They can help propagate that black is also beautiful and that skin colour is not the only factor of beauty. The “ideal body image” debate needs to be countered and “self-love”, promoted.
REFERENCES:
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